Saturday, December 24, 2022

FREE KNITTING PATTERN: “Willow” Disney+ TV Series Green Hooded Wrapped Shawl Scarf

Elora Danan’s Green Hooded Wrapped Shawl Scarf from the “Willow” Disney+ TV Series: FREE KNITTING PATTERN

by CraftyRunnerMom

(Please note: This pattern is a fan recreation based off of prop photos taken of the original costume that was on display at the D23 Expo. That original costume was designed by Sarah Young. I am in no way affiliated with the Disney Company, Disney+, or the Willow series production staff. This pattern is for personal recreational purposes only.)




The moment I saw the first episode of the “Willow” TV Series on Disney+, I was struck by how interesting Elora Danan’s (a.k.a. Dove, Brunhilde) quest outfit was, particularly her hooded wrapped shawl. So I decided to embark on my own quest to make a replica. 


Abbreviations

st = stitch
sts = stitches
BO = bind off
CO = cast on
M1K = make 1 stitch knit-wise
M1P = make 1 stitch purl-wise
PM = place marker
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together decrease
P2tog = purl 2 stitches together decrease


MATERIALS:

Knitting needles (US Size 8, 5.0 mm) 
Worsted weight yarn (about 1719.8 yards or 1572.6 meters***)

*** Your individual yardage may vary depending on your scarf length and torso size.  You can use this Yardage Calculator and the gauge below to calculate your estimated yardage.


GAUGE:

18 rows = 10 cm fabric 

24 sts of 1:1 rib = 10 cm fabric = 68.5 cm yarn 

26 sts of 2:2 rib = 10 cm fabric = 75 cm yarn 

38 sts of 1:1 rib = 16 cm fabric = scarf section width

76 sts in 2:2 rib = 26.25 cm fabric = torso section width



MEASUREMENTS GUIDE: 

To make this a custom fitted piece, you need to take a few measurements of your body:
  • Distance between shoulder to ankle (or wherever you want the scarf to end). Subtract 30 cm from that distance to equal the SCARF LENGTH.  (NOTE: 30 cm is the length of the transition section where the 1:1 rib increases into 2:2 rib).
  • Circumference of upper arm from armpit to shoulder. That circumference will be used to calculate two numbers.  ARM HOLE TOP LENGTH = 1/3 x circumference.  ARM HOLE BOTTOM LENGTH = 2/3 x circumference. 
  • Circumference around torso underneath breasts.  (If you want your garment to fit tighter, subtract a few inches/cm to provide negative ease.)  Divide this circumference in half to equal the TORSO FRONT LENGTH.  
  • TORSO BACK LENGTH = TORSO FRONT LENGTH minus ARM HOLE BOTTOM LENGTH.
  • Distance from outer corner of left shoulder to top of head to outer corner of right shoulder. This is the HOOD LENGTH.  (Depending upon how much drape you want the hood opening to have, you can make this longer or shorter).


UPDATED 2/25/2023:

I really wanted this pattern to be size inclusive, so that’s why it’s been challenging to come up with a “one size fits all” formula. 

If you find that the above formulas make the torso back section too short, here are a few alterations to the pattern that you can make: 

  1. The garment arm hole has a lot of stretch, so make sure that when you measure your arm circumference you pull the measuring tape snug. If this doesn’t work, you can try any or all the following 3 alteration options.
  2. Multiply your real arm circumference by 0.75 and use that new number as the new arm circumference. This will create negative ease.
  3. Switch to the following new formulas to calculate the arm hole top and bottom lengths: ARM HOLE TOP LENGTH = 2/5 x arm circumference.
    ARM HOLE BOTTOM LENGTH = 3/5 x arm circumference. The downside to this alteration is that the shoulders may be more droopy.
  4. Use the following new formula to calculate the torso back: TORSO BACK LENGTH = 1/2 x TORSO FRONT LENGTH. This is probably the easiest alteration. The only downside is that the ends of the scarf section may hang a little longer on the finished garment.

The garment is knit in two pieces, and seamed together at the neck. The main section is knit side-to-side, starts with a 1:1 rib that transitions to 2:2 rib, and uses short-rows to make armholes. Below is a schematic of how the garment is constructed.
hooded shawl construction schematic

PATTERN:

  1. FIRST SHOULDER SCARF: CO 38 sts in 1:1 rib pattern, turn.
  2. * K1 P1, repeat from * until end of row, turn.
  3. Repeat Step 2 until reach SCARF LENGTH (see measurements guide above).
  4. INCREASE ROW: (K1 P1 K1 P1 K1 P1 M1K) x 3 times, K1 P1, (M1K K1 P1 K1 P1 K1 P1) x 3 times, turn.
  5. (K1 P1 K1 P1 K1 P2) x 3 times, K1, (P2 K1 P1 K1 P1 K1) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  6. K1, (P1 K1 P1 K1 P1 K2) x 3 times, P1, (K2 P1 K1 P1 K1 P1) x 3 times, turn.
  7. Repeat Steps 5-6 for the next 6 rows.
  8. INCREASE ROW: (K1 P1 K1 P1 K1 M1K P2) x 3 times, K1, (P2 M1K K1 P1 K1 P1 K1) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  9. K1, (P1 K1 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P1, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K1 P1) x 3 times, turn.
  10. (K1 P1 K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, K1, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P1 K1) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  11. Repeat Steps 9-10 for the next 6 rows.
  12. INCREASE ROW: K1, (M1P P1 K1 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, M1P P1, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K1 M1P P1) x 3 times, turn.
  13. (K2 P1 K1 P1 K2 P2 ) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P1 K2) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  14. K1, (P2 K1 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K1 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  15. Repeat Steps 13-14 for the next 6 rows.
  16. INCREASE ROW: (K2 P1 M1P K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P1 K1 M1P P1 K2) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  17. K1, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  18. (K2 P2 K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  19. Repeat Steps 17-18 for the next 6 rows.
  20. INCREASE ROW: K1 M1K, (P2 K2 P1 M1K K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K1 M1K P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  21. (K2 P2 K1 P2 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P2 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, turn.
  22. K2, (P2 K2 P1 K2 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K2 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  23. Repeat Steps 21-22 for the next 6 rows.
  24. INCREASE ROW: (K2 P2 K1 M1K P2 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P2 M1K K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, turn.
  25. FIRST TORSO FRONT: * K2 P2, repeat from * until end of row, turn.
  26. Repeat Step 25 until reach TORSO FRONT LENGTH. PM on the final st to indicate that this edge is the “neck border” of the fabric.
  27. FIRST ARM HOLE: K2 P2 rib for 28 sts, PM on 29th st and place that st and the remaining sts of the row on hold, turn. There should be 48 sts on hold. 
  28. TOP SECTION OF ARM HOLE: K2 P2 rib for 28 sts, turn.
  29. Repeat Step 28 until reach ARM HOLE TOP LENGTH. Make note of how many rows were needed. Then place these 28 sts on hold.
  30. BOTTOM SECTION OF ARM HOLE: Using a new strand of yarn & beginning with the marked hold st from Step 27: K2 P2 rib for 48 sts, turn.
  31. Repeat K2 P2 rib rows until reach the ARM HOLE BOTTOM LENGTH, turn.
  32. REJOINING ROW: K2 P2 rib for 76 sts, thus closing the arm hole. Turn.
  33. TORSO BACK: If the final st of Step 32 is on the “neck border” of the fabric (as marked in Step 26), K2 P2 rib for 76 sts, turn. If the final st of Step 32 is on the opposite border of the “neck border” of the fabric, SKIP to Step 34.
  34. SHORT ROW: K2 P2 rib for 58 sts, place the remaining 18 sts on hold, turn.
  35. Slip 1st st purlwise, P1, K2 P2 rib to end of row, turn.
  36. For the next 4 rows: K2 P2 rib for 76 sts, turn.
  37. SHORT ROW: K2 P2 rib for 64 sts, place the remaining 12 sts on hold, turn.
  38. Slip 1st st knitwise, K1, P2, then K2 P2 rib to end of row, turn.
  39. For the next 4 rows: K2 P2 rib for 76 sts, turn.
  40. Repeat Steps 34-39 until the “waist border” reaches the length that’s the TORSO BACK LENGTH.  Because of the short rows in Steps 34 & 37, the “neck border” will be shorter than the “waist border”. 
  41. If the final st of Step 40 is on the “neck border” of the fabric (as marked in Step 26), SKIP to Step 42. If the final st is either in the middle of the fabric or on the “waist border” of the fabric, K2 P2 rib to the end of the row until the final st is on the “neck border, turn.
  42. SECOND ARM HOLE: Repeat Steps 27-32 to make the SECOND ARM HOLE.
  43. SECOND TORSO FRONT: * K2 P2, repeat from * until end of row, turn.
  44. Repeat Step 43 until reach same number of rows as Step 26.
  45. SECOND SHOULDER SCARF: DECREASE ROW: (K2 P2 K2tog P2 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P2 K2tog P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, turn.
  46. K2, (P2 K2 P1 K2 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K2 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  47. (K2 P2 K1 P2 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P2 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, turn.
  48. Repeat Steps 46-47 for the next 6 rows.
  49. DECREASE ROW: K2tog, (P2 K2 P1 K2tog P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K2tog P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  50. (K2 P2 K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  51. K1, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  52. Repeat Steps 51-52 for the next 6 rows.
  53. DECREASE ROW: (K2 P2tog K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P2tog K2) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  54. K1, (P2 K1 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K1 P2) x 3 times, turn.
  55. (K2 P1 K1 P1 K2 P2 ) x 3 times, K2, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P1 K2) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  56. Repeat Steps 54-55 for the next 6 rows.
  57. DECREASE ROW: K1, (P2tog K1 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P2tog, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K1 P2tog) x 3 times, turn.
  58. (K1 P1 K1 P1 K2 P2) x 3 times, K1, (P2 K2 P1 K1 P1 K1) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  59. K1, (P1 K1 P1 K1 P2 K2) x 3 times, P1, (K2 P2 K1 P1 K1 P1) x 3 times, turn.
  60. Repeat Steps 58-59 for the next 6 rows.
  61. DECREASE ROW: (K1 P1 K1 P1 K2tog P2) x 3 times, K1, (P2 K2tog P1 K1 P1 K1) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  62. K1, (P1 K1 P1 K1 P1 K2) x 3 times, P1, (K2 P1 K1 P1 K1 P1) x 3 times, turn.
  63. (K1 P1 K1 P1 K1 P2) x 3 times, K1, (P2 K1 P1 K1 P1 K1) x 3 times, P1, turn.
  64. Repeat Steps 62-63 for the next 6 rows.
  65. DECREASE ROW: K1, (P1 K1 P1 K1 P1 K2tog) x 3 times, P1, (K2tog P1 K1 P1 K1 P1) x 3 times, turn.
  66. * K1 P1, repeat from * until end of row, turn.
  67. Repeat Step 66 until reach same number of rows as Step 3.
  68. BO 38 sts in 1:1 rib pattern.
  69. HOOD: CO 56 sts in 2:2 rib pattern. Turn.
  70. * K2 P2, repeat from * until end of row, turn.
  71. Repeat Step 70 until reach HOOD LENGTH.
  72. BO 56 sts in 2:2 rib pattern.
  73. Fold hood in half, then stitch together the back seam of hood.
  74. ASSEMBLING THE GARMENT: PM on the center back of the neckline (see the illustrated schematic for reference). 
  75. Align the center of the hood with center neckline.
  76. Stitch hood to the back of the torso section.
  77. Weave in yarn tails.

HOW TO WEAR THE GARMENT: 

  1. Place both arms into the garment similar to putting on a sweater.
  2. Wrap the left scarf section across the front of your torso, draped above your right shoulder (pull it snug so that the decrease row rests behind your right shoulder), and thru the armhole.
  3. Then drape the right scarf portion over the front of your torso and over your left shoulder (pull it snug so that the decrease row rests behind your left shoulder).
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20 comments:

  1. sarahDecember 25, 2022 at 3:28 AM

    Thank you so much for the pattern! Could you also post pictures of what your version looks like?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Jessica (aka: MustLoveTeaAndDogs)January 7, 2023 at 7:39 AM

    I'd sooo love to see a finished mock up too! I just ordered some fiber I scored. Going to dye and spin up for this project. I'm obsessed with this garment!

    ReplyDelete
  3. CraftwellbeingJanuary 14, 2023 at 3:08 AM

    Step 34 says repeat step 18 for Back, but step 18 is part of the increase rows for shoulder with K1 P1 stitches rather than K2 P2 all the way, which is what the Back would be if continuing on from the arm hole? Love the pattern, thank you so much.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftyRunnerMomJanuary 14, 2023 at 9:47 AM

      Oops. That was an error. I meant to say repeat step 33. Thanks for catching that error!

      Delete
  4. CraftyRunnerMomJanuary 14, 2023 at 11:12 AM

    UPDATE: I had to alter the pattern for steps 27 to 32 and alter the Torso Back calculation to prevent the shoulders and back neckline from drooping.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftwellbeingJanuary 17, 2023 at 10:51 AM

      Lol I had to stitch up the first armhole as it was way too big and before I saw this comment, I'm on second armhole and considering ripping right back now. Thank you for amending though as I was wondering about some sagging (that's me as well as the knitting!)

      Delete
  5. A.NguyenJanuary 18, 2023 at 12:48 PM

    Is Torso Back Length = Underbust Circumference minus Arm Hole Bottom Length or is Torso Back Length = Torso Front Length minus Arm Hole Bottom Length? Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftyRunnerMomJanuary 20, 2023 at 1:17 AM

      Great question!
      Torso back length = (0.5 x underbust circumference) - (arm hole bottom length).

      Delete
  6. JSJanuary 20, 2023 at 6:02 AM

    Is the circumference from armpit to shoulder, the measurement from armpit to shoulder (e.g. half the circumference)or is it the whole circumference (e.g. the whole arm from armpit to armpit)? cause I got 41 if I do the circumference, which means 27 as the bottom arm whole length, which leaves on 10 for the back and that seems wrong

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftyRunnerMomJanuary 20, 2023 at 9:57 PM

      The arm circumference is the circumference from armpit up to shoulder and back down to the armpit. Yes, the arm hole bottom piece is longer than the arm hole top piece by design because of how the fabric stretches when worn. This will cause the arm hole border of the bottom piece to curve upwards toward the shoulder when worn, while the waist edge of the bottom piece stays at the waist. The torso back will indeed seem much smaller than the torso front, but that is also by design so that the back of the garment doesn’t sag away from the body, which will be important once the hood is attached.

      Delete
  7. ToriJanuary 31, 2023 at 10:12 AM

    What yarn is recommended for this?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftyRunnerMomFebruary 5, 2023 at 7:25 PM

      I used Red Heart Super Saver in Hunter Green, but any worsted weight yarn would suffice. I initially used 5 skeins of Red Heart (364 yards per skein), but I kept tripping on the ankle length scarf sections, so I cut away the excess until it was just above my knees. So with the shorter length Scarf sections, I ended up using only 4 skeins total.

      Delete
  8. TrishaFebruary 5, 2023 at 2:44 PM

    Hello I was just wondering if I could use this pattern for a knit-a-long on tiktok. I would of course credit you for the pattern and I am wanting to do a trade for the finished project.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftyRunnerMomFebruary 5, 2023 at 7:24 PM

      Yes you can use this pattern for a knit-a-long! Just send me the link so that I can watch it too 😁.

      Delete
  9. Michelle NunezFebruary 26, 2023 at 4:10 PM

    On step 4, the increase row, do you work all the stitches or are some left on the needle? I casted on more than 38 stitches because I wanted a thicker width so I am trying to modify your pattern. I cast on 78 stitches.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. CraftyRunnerMomMarch 3, 2023 at 9:25 PM

      All the stitches are worked in Step 4. Essentially I was trying to gradually double the amount of stitches over 46 rows (steps 4-24).

      Delete
  10. e0lasFebruary 27, 2023 at 7:52 AM

    Hi
    I'm trying to figure out the gauge - this may seem like a stupid question but is it
    24 sts x 18 rows (1:1 rib) = 10cm square of fabric
    &
    26 sts x 18 rows (2:2 rib) = 10cm square of fabric

    Thanks :)

    ReplyDelete
  11. UnknownMarch 13, 2023 at 7:13 PM

    I made this for my daughter and it's the first time I've knit anything requiring a measurement. Definitely big on her but I loooove it!

    ReplyDelete
  12. CraftyRunnerMomMarch 18, 2023 at 7:59 AM

    That’s awesome! 👍🏼😆

    ReplyDelete

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